By the fifth morning I had stopped trying to see things and started trying to notice them. Kyoto rewards that — the same alley reads differently at 7am and 4pm and the difference is the whole point.
I drank too much tea, walked too far on the Philosopher's Path, and let the leaves do most of the talking. The crowds thin out if you start before breakfast or stay past dusk.
I keep meaning to write a list of recommendations and keep deciding I'd rather not. Some places are better when you find them by accident.